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Featured in the Handyman Club of America Magazine |
View step by step instructions and photos of an octagonal deck as featured in the Handyman Club of America Magazine
Step 1 - Layout Dek-Block Brand Piers
Start by placing the two outside rows of Dek-Block brand piers to form the inside rectangle of the octagon. If the Dek-Block brandpiers do not sit level, you may need to remove a little grass or dirt to level each Dek-Block brand pier. Space according to dimensions on plan. |
Step 2 - Level First 2"x6" Support Board
Locate the highest corner Dek-Block brand pier. Position a 2"x6" support board in or above block to your desired height. Measure the distance from the bottom of the 2"x6" support board to the pocket of the Dek-Block brand pier. Cut 4"x4" post to length and position 2"x6" support board atop. Using a level as a guide, position the 2"x6" support board above the last block of the row. Measure the distance from the bottom of the 2"x6" support board to the pocket of the Dek-Block brand pier. Cut 4"x4" post to length and position 2"x6" support board atop. Repeat this process for all of the Dek-Block brand piers along this 2"x6" support. After all 4"x4" posts are cut and positioned, verify the support is level and make any adjustments that maybe needed. |
Step 3 - Level Second 2"x6" Support Board
Temporarily remove the beginning 2"x6" support board and turn it 90 degrees. Using the 2"x6" support board as a level guide, determine the height of needed 4"x4" post for the remaining two corners of the rectangle. Measure the distance from the bottom of the 2"x6" support board to the pocket of the Dek-Block brand pier. Cut 4"x4" post to length. Repeat Step 2 for the second outside 2"x6" support board of the rectangle. |
Step 4 - Create the Box
Attach 2"x6" end boards to the 2"x6" support boards using two 2 1/2" deck screws at each end. Using a level as a guide, ensure that both end boards are level. Adjust outside support boards until diagonal distance between opposite corners is EQUAL. This will ensure the frame is square.
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Step 5 - Securing the 4"x4" Posts
Attach 2"x6" support boards to the 4"x4" posts using two 2 1/2" deck screws from each side.
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Step 6 - Position remaining Supports
Position and attach 2"x6" support boards to the end boards using two 2 1/2" deck screws at each end. Position Dek-Block brand piers beneath the support boards. Measure distance from the bottom of the 2"x6" support boards to the pocket of the Dek-Block brand piers. Cut 4"x4" posts to length and position between 2"x6" support boards and Dek-Block brand piers. Repeat until all 4"x4" posts are cut and positioned. Secure all 2"x6" support boards and 4"x4" posts as shown in Step 5.
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Step 7 - Layout and Level Octagonal Supports
Position the remaining two rows of Dek-Block brand piers according to the measurements provided in the plan. Use the existing frame as a leveling point to determine the height of one of the 4"x4" posts for each row. Cut and position the 4"x4" posts in each of the Dek-Block brand piers. Use a 2"x6" support board as a level guide to determine the remaining 4"x4" posts.
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Step 8 - Building the Octagonal FrameUsing the measurements provided in the plan, cut the three outside 2"x6" frames of the octagon. Attach the outside 2"x6" frame to the existing rectangular frame using two 2 1/2" deck screws at each end. Use temporary blocking to support the frame. After the outside 2"x6" frame is secured and attached, cut the two remaining 2"x6" support boards to fit between the two angled sides of the frame. You will need 45 degree cuts on both ends. Position and attach to the outside 2"x6" frames and 4"x4" posts.
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Step 9 - Add Fascia Blocking
Cut and attach 6" - 2"x6" support blocking between the outside 2"x6" frame and the 2"x6" support board. Attach using two 2 1/2" deck screws at each end.
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Step 10 - Layout and Secure Decking
Starting at one end and align the first decking board with the edge of the 2"x6" end board. The decking should run perpendicular to the 2"x6" support boards. For this project, we used CorrectDeck composite lumber. Due to the density and consistency of composite lumber, we used 2 1/2" Zip-Tip trim head screws. These are designed specifically for composite decking. Before attaching with screws, we recommended that the composite decking be pre-drilled. When the torx-drive screw head (about 3/16" wide) is driven below the surface, the fibers in the decking around the hole and the screw head virtually disappears. Use the width of a deck screw as a spacer between the deck boards.
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Step 11 - Final Decking Boards
As the decking becomes close to the end, measure each side to ensure the decking is parallel with the 2"x6" end board. Small corrections may be needed on the remaining boards to ensure they are parallel.
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Step 12 - Finish Decking
Using a sharp carbide-tip blade, trim the overhanging decking boards flush with the edges of the 2"x6" support frames.
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Step 13 - Arbor Post Holes
Mark the location of the six arbor 4"x4" post according to the plan provided. We used a gas powered auger, but a manual post hole digger could be used. The 4"x4" post holes need to extend to the frost line. Contact you local building department to fine the frost line depth for you area.
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Step 14 - Setting the Posts
Place one 4"x4" post into each hole. Temporarily attach the 4"x4" post to the frame of the deck, making sure the 4"x4" post is centered in the hole and remains plumb. Fill the holes with concrete, following the concrete manufactures recommendations. Allow the concrete to cure before removing the temporary screws in the 4"x4" posts. It is important to keep the deck and arbor independent of each other.
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Step 15 - Notch the Beam
The structure of the arbor consists of 6 - 2"x8" cedar beams. Before attaching or cutting to size, align and clamp the 6 beams together. Using a circular saw, cut 1 1/2" deep by 1 1/2" wide notches in the top edge of the 2"x8" beams. Space the notches according to the plan provided. Use a chisel to remove excess waste and smooth the the notches even.
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Step 16 - Cutting the Posts
Mark the desired height of the arbor beam on one of the 4"x4" posts. Attach a temporary board to the 4"x4" post using one screw, aligning the top of the board with the height line of the post. Using a level as a guide, attach the opposite end of the temporary board to the opposite 4"x4" post. Using a reciprocating saw or circular saw, cut the 4"x4" post to length. Repeat this process for each 4"x4" post making sure the top of the 4"x4" posts are level with each other.
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Step 17 - Placing the Beam
Attach the 2"x8" beam to the 4"x4" post using one screw, aligning the bottom of the notch with the top of the post. Make sure the notches in the beams are centered equally between the 4"x4" posts. Using a level as a guide, attach the opposite end of the 2"x8" beam to the opposite post. Drill two 1/2" holes through the two 2"x8" beams and 4"x4" post at each end. Attach the two 2"x8" beams to the post with two 1/2" x 7 1/2" galvanized lag or carriage bolts. Repeat this process for the remaining beams. Make sure the notches from one 2"x8" beam to the next is aligned for the 2"x6" top boards to sit. Use a temporary 2"x6" board to ensure they are aligned through all of the 2"x8" beams.
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Step 18 - Scrolling the Top Boards
Cut all 2"x6" cedar top boards to length. Using either a cardboard or scrap wood template, draw a design for the scrolling ends. Transfer your design to each end of the 2"x6" top boards. Using a jig saw cut the design from the 2"x6" top board. We used a belt sander with a medium grit sand paper to smooth the cuts and round the edges of the scroll.
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Step 19 - Placing the Top Boards
Place the scrolled 2"x6" cedar top boards into the notches of the 2"x8" beams. Align the front and back of all of the 2"x6" top boards to be equal. |
Step 20 - Attaching the Top Boards
From each side of the 2"x6" top board, toe-screw one 3" deck screw from the 2"x6" top board into the 2"x8" beam. Repeat this at each connection point. |
Step 21 - Bench Leg Frames
Cut 54 - 19" cedar 2"x4" boards. With 36 of the precut boards, create 18 "legs" by fastening two 19" cedar 2"x4" boards together using 2 1/2" deck screws. After all of the legs are fastened together, attach a 19" cedar 2"x4" board connecting two legs together using 2 1/2" deck screws. Place the sides of the leg with the screws showing to one consistent side. Make sure the double 2"x4" legs do not extend past the horizontal 2"x4" boards. |
Step 22 - Positioning the Leg Frames
Following the dimension in the plan, position the leg frames on the deck. Use a temporary board to align the frames 1 1/2" from the edge of the deck. Using a 2 1/2" trim head screw, toe-screw the leg frames into the top of the deck. Place one screw on each side of each leg. |
Step 23 - Bench Frame
Following the dimension in the plan, cut the front and back 2"x4" cedar boards of the bench frame. Attach to the installed leg frames using 2 1/2" trim head screws. |
Step 24 - Corner Leg Support
Place a 19" cedar 2"x4" board in the four 45 degree corners of the bench. Toe-screw into the surface of the deck and into the frame of the bench using 2 1/2" trim head screws. |
Step 25 - Corner Frame Support
Measure and cut a double 2"x4" cedar board to be placed in the four 45 degree corners. Secure to each other, and then to the frame of the bench using 2 1/2" trim head screws. |
Step 26 - Bench Based Trim
Cut 18 22" cedar 2"x4" boards. Cut a 1 1/2" - 45 degree chamfer from each end. Position one board on each side of each leg and attach using 2 1/2" trim head screws. |
Step 27 - Bench Decking
Cut to fit four decking boards for each section of the bench. Start at one end of the bench and work your way around. Use the width of a deck screw as a spacer between deck boards. Attaching using 2 1/2" trim head screws. Predrilling is preferred. |
Step 28 - Planter Frame
Cut all 2"x2" cedar boards to length according to dimensions supplied in the plan. Attach following the layout provided in the plan using one 2 1/2" deck screw at each connection. |
Step 29 - Planter Base
Cut three 15 3/4" cedar 2"x4" boards. Attach to base using two 2 1/2" deck screws at each end. |
Step 30 - Planter Sides
Cut twelve 24" cedar 5/4"x6" boards. Starting flush with the edge of the frame, attach using 2 1/2" deck screws at each end. Evenly space the remaining two 5/4"x6" cedar boards along that side such that the last board extends past the frame the thickness of a 5/4"x6" cedar board. Repeat this for each side. |
Step 31 - Side Trim
Place and attach 2"x4" cedar boards at the bottom and top of the planter using 2 1/2" trim head screws. These pieces will need to be cut-to-fit. |
Step 32 - Top Trim
Place and attach 5/4"x6" cedar boards on the top of the planter using 2 1/2" trim head screws. These pieces will need to be cut-to-fit. |
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Printable Step by Step Instructions and Plans for the octagonal deck featured in the Handyman Club of America Magazine
The printable version of our instructions are in Adobe PDF format. You must have Adobe Reader to be able to view and print the plans. The Acrobat Reader is free from Adobe.
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